Climbing expedition, Tahu Ratum, Karakoram – 2010
Three young climbers aim to attempt the unclimbed north-west
ridge of Tahu Ratum (the left hand ridge in photo), a 6,651
metre-high mountain peak in Pakistan, in an expedition to be
conducted from July to September 2010. The peak is an immaculate
granite pyramid which rises approximately 1,500m from the Khana
Basa glacier, in the Hispar Muztagh region of the Karakorum. Tahu
Ratum has only had one ascent to date - a Japanese team climbed
the south-west ridge in 1977. The most notable recent attempt was
by Kyle Dempster, who attempted to aid solo the West Face in
December 2008, but retreated 200 metres below the summit.
The expedition’s patron Sir Chris Bonington, a British
mountaineer who made the first ever ascent of the South Face of
Annapurna and has been recognised as one of the great explorers of
modern times, said "an alpine style ascent of Tahu Ratum
(6,651m) is a particularly noteworthy and challenging objective,
which will help raise the profile of British mountaineering."
The JWCT awarded £750 to the British expedition.
The climbing team Tom Ripley, Hamish Dunn and Luke Hunt
(pictured left on Petit Dru, in the Alps) aim to climb the peak in
alpine style following a six-day trek to the base-camp at the
junction of the Khani Basa and Khani Basa East Glaciers. Tom said
"the generous grant from the Jeremy Willson Charitable Trust
will go along way towards getting us to Pakistan this summer,
where hopefully we will realise our dreams and succeed in the
first ascent of Tahu Ratum's north-west ridge."